The second and third years of the Great Lakes Food Sovereignty Summit were hosted by the Gun Lake Potawatomi at the Jijak Foundation camp in Michigan. (For information on the first Great Lakes Food Summit held at Oneida, you can read about the workshops here, and the chefs here). This summit was notable in that, rather than spending most of our time indoors looking at power point presentations the way you do at most conferences, (although there was a little bit of that too), we also spent a great deal of time engaged in hands-on activities– everything from foraging walks to animal butchering to corn grinding. Becuase I’m literally years behind on updating this poor blog, I’m going to summarize the first two years of the summit together in one post. (For more about year three, hosted at the Meskwaki Settlement, check out this post. Information on year four’s event in Michigan is coming soon!)
The first year at Jijak, butchering workshops involved animals that had been slaughtered offsite, and brought to Jijak for workshops on how to deconstruct them.
Tim Sobie from Sobie Meats led a workshop on how to deconstruct a buffalo carcass (2016). Photo by Elizabeth HooverMaizie peers on with interest as the buffalo is broken down. (2016) Photo by Elizabeth HooverBen Jacobs grilling up the freshly cut up buffalo (2016). Photo by Elizabeth HooverDan was hoping to have a sheep on site to slaughter and butcher, but that wasn’t possible the first year of the conference, so a fresh churro sheep carcass was brought in for butchering (2016).
In addition to the buffalo, Elisio Curley and Roy Kady, both Dine sheepherders and weavers, demonstrated how Navajo Churro sheep are butchered, and their wool utilized.
Roy Kady spinning yarn from Navajo churro sheep wool. Photo by Elizabeth Hoover
Other hands on workshops included cooking corn over the fire
George Martin and Mike Reeves cooking flint corn and wood ash together over the fire. This is done to help remove the hull from the corn so that the nutrients inside will be more bioavailable. (2016)Ground corn, and dried flint corn
Steven Perry demonstrating baskets and corn husk doll making
mobile saw mill, and timber frame barn (2016)
Each of these conferences also includes a track focusing on seed saving, which in 2016 included workshops by Rowen White and Clayton Brascoupe about how to grow, select, clean, and save seeds. There were also tours of the seed bank at Jijak, which included over 260 varieties. At one point, 30 different seed partners were working with the seed bank to grow out and keep the seed stock fresh and viable. With one variety, the Potawatomi pole bean, they started out with 12 beans, and were then able to increase those numbers to several buckets full.
Seed exchange Clayton Brascoupe and Rowen White delivering a seed saving workshop– showing how window screens can be used to separate seeds from their shells and leaves. (2016)
Seed bank at Jijak
Mariaelena Huambachano, an indigenous researcher originally from Peru who received her PhD in New Zealand at the University of Aukland, traveled all the way to Michigan to attend the food summit (2016)
Cree elder Daisy Kostus led plant walks through the woods to give people hands-on experience in identifying and responsibly harvesting edibles and medicinal plants
harvesting trout lily leaves
One of the favorite spring edibles are ramps– broad leaf onions with small bulbs that taste slightly oniony, slightly garlicky, but a little milder than both. Ramps are delicious in soups, chopped up finely and added to rice, and included in any other recipe you might add scallions too. The most responsible way to harvest ramps is to cut the bulbs above the roots, and to not take too many adjacent plants.
ramps!
Trout lilies. The leaves and flowers can be eaten raw and added to salads
Dr. Martin Reinhardt who helped create and run the Decolonizing Diet Project out of Northern Michigan University Center for Native American Studies, also conducted plant walks, and encouraged people to get to know, and consume, their local foods.
While maple tapping season was over, Lee Sprague gave pointers on how to use hand made spigots to tap birch trees, whose sap can also be boiled down into syrup
Giant kettles used to boil sap over the fireevaporator inside the sugar house, used for boiling down sap into maple syrup and maple sugar.Kevin Finney demonstrating how the scoops would be used to remove the sugar after the water had been boiled out of the sapBrian Yazzie trying out some birch syrup
Chefs Arlie Doxtator, Andrea Murdoch, Loretta Barett Oden and Ben Jacobs visiting in the dining hallAndrea Murdoch and Claudia Serrato preparing foodArlie Doxtator removing squash skinsAngela Ferguson preparing traditional boiled corn breadbreading walleye from Red LakeAnna Sigrithur preparing a flat bread from flour made from bark Red Lake walleye with white corn crust, and a hickory nut and pear sauce; salad w craisins and local maple vinegar; green beans; and a bread made of pine bark flour late night corn grinding!
eggs with salsa verde, black beans, greens with wild rice, and atole for breakfast
red chili buffalo soup with Oaxacan corn; sunchokes, greens with wild rice, sweet potatoes
Alberta Salazar from Oaxaca demonstrates to Ana and Maizie how to clean nopalesAlberta and Chef Neftali Duran, also originally from Oaxaca, brought the flavors of their homeland to the Great Lakes Summit, preparing a posole that included local corn and buffalo, but also nopales and chilisNeftali stirring the posoletearing up yerba santa leaves to add to the soup
Unfortunately, I had to leave before the end of the conference (to make a 950 mile drive back to RI in time for the Brown University powwow), but to see the rest of the conference activities for the 2016 event, check out Dan’s blog here.
The second year of the conference, Dan was able to procure a live Navajo churro sheep from a local farm, and the conference began with a hands on experience that entailed respectfully taking the sheep’s life, and then processing the animal all the way to a dozen different types of food.
The blood from the sheep was saved to make blood sausagesThe sheep slaughtering and butchering was guided by Aretta Begay from the Navajo Churro Lamb Presidium, and the Dine be’Iina’ Navajo Lifeway organization
removing the skin
removing the stomach and intestineBrian Yazzie and Neftali Duran with the ribscleaning out the intestinecleaning out the stomach ách’ĂĂ’: Navajo delicacy: fat wrapped with sheep intestinesfresh off the grill– ách’ĂĂ’: Navajo delicacy: fat wrapped with sheep intestinesmaking blood sausage with sheep blood, spices, and blue corn mealroasting the leg of lamb over the fireAretta and the cooked leg of lamblamb tacos!Aretta and Chef Teri Ami inspect the lamb meat that’s been braised in cedarYousef and I carrying geese to Daisy to be butchered and roastedDaisy swirling the goose in hot water in order to make removing the feathers easierDaisy plucking out the feathersThe windpipe can be used as a whistle!Shane McSauby helps Daisy hang the gees near to the fire on a string, so they can rotate and slow roastDaisy also led the group in the butchering of a beaver that had been trapped near by. Daisy grew up “in the bush” and has been skinning beavers since she was 3 years old, as she recalls.We all got to have a turn separating the hide from the meat. Beavers are surprisingly harder to skin than other mammals like sheep or deerChef David Rico tries his hand at skinning the beaverDaisy uses her expert hand to show us how it’s done, while Tiana Suazao from Taos helps to pull the hide tightMelvin removing the gutsAfter the internal cavity is all cleaned out, Daisy filled the beaver with apples and oranges and sewed it shut againDennis, who trapped the beavers, then helped Daisy hang them near the fire to be slow roastedDaisy and Dennis cutting apart the beaver after it’s done cooking. The meat is very dark and has a very strong flavorThe beaver meat out on the buffet tableIt received mixed responses
scraping the beaver hide
cleaned hide stretched to dry
There were also demonstrations on how to remove the hulls from wild rice after it has been toasted by spreading it on a clean hide and rubbing it with your feet (wearing clean moccasins). The rice is then put in bark trays and tossed up in the air so the wind will carry away the chaff.
Mary Arquette winnowing rice
Mohawk potter Natasha Smoke Santiago was also in attendance, with some of her hand made traditional pottery. This was the first time she tried cooking in her pots, which are modeled after traditional cooking pots of the 17th century. She was very pleased with the results!
pot made by Natasha Smoke SantiagoTasha adding water and chaga tea to her potErick, who also makes traditional clay cooking pots also made tea over the firein addition, corn was toasted inside one of Erick’s pots
Clayton holding some of the corn that he grew at his home in Tesuque PuebloAssortment of seeds that Rowen brought to share as part of the seed exchangeCollection of traditional Haudenosaunee seeds brought by Angela Ferguson
Chefs and other participants also had a nice time foraging for fresh ingredients to add to the meals
Karlos Baca, Yusuf Bin-Rella, Ben Jacobs and David Rico
spice bush
Kristina Stanley and David Rico with their bark foraging basketsAretta Begay harvesting spring onionsspring onionsKevin harvesting wild ginger
Tashia Hart with fresh ramps and edible flowers
ramps
Jamie Betters from the Oneida Cannery demonstrates how to shell and cook white cornshelling white corn, grown at Tsyunhehkwa in Wisconsin
As part of a broader effort towards, and discussion around, retracing, relearning and reconnecting tribal trade routes, Julio Saqui– a Mayan chocolate producer from Belize- came to the conference to demonstrate how real chocolate is produced. Julio helped to found the Che’il Mayan Chocolate Factory in 2010 in the Stann Creek District of Belize. Mayan farmers grow the cacao locally, and the factory that Julio helped to build produces chocolate bars in twelve different flavors along with other delicacies such as truffles, chocolate wine, cacao tea and cacao nibs.”Che’il” is the Mopan Mayan word for “wild Mayan,” as part of a tongue-in-cheek effort to reclaim the designation.
Julio Saqui holding a cacao podThe beans inside the pod were roasted and smashed, and then cooked over the firefresh hot chocolate!Many great meal components were prepared in and around the turtle oven!Neftali grinding fresh salsaNeftali and Crystal scooping up fresh salsafish wrapped in yerba santa leavescooking black beans over the firecorn soup with lamb, cooking over the firecrew of chefs!cedar braised bisonAngela Ferguson preparing a lovely green salad with strawberriesKristina Stanley scooping out roasted butternut squashKarlos cooking hand made tortillasPaula Hill pressing the tortillasMaizie serving up buffalo and squashTeri Ami chopping up nopalesblue corn tortilla; nopales salad with quinoa, avocado and tomatoes; green beans and potatoes, bison cooked in red chili with squash; and tepary beans, with strips of rampsBen and David preparing the bison and red chiliClaudia and Mariaelena plating the nopales saladMaizie slicing up white fishRico plating the white fishMaking tamales!! Aretta, me, Tashia, Kimtamales steamingPaula handing out tamalesKristina making her famous sunprint cookies– gluten free, vegan, nut-based delicious cookies!!Karlos grilling mushroomsKarlos Baca serving foodNavajo tea, labrador tea, and cedar teachef crew!
Some of the beautiful dishes that were served: tepary beans, bison and potatoes in red chili sauce; bison blue corn tacos; nopales salad; squash bars; blue corn and bear root squares; corn soup; beans; and Claudia’s famous chia pudding with walnut creme topping desert.
The summit culminated in an outdoor tasting fair, featuring each of the different chefs who were present
Above, Teri Ami from Navajo Nation serves corn and blueberry parfait with maple sugar
Marlena and Claudia serving “love bites”– Love bites, made from ground corn that became almost gel like, topped with popped amaranth and wild flowers
Brian Yazzie, aka Yazzie the Chef, and his partner Hoonie, served muskrat with juniper, mushrooms and acorn squash.
Angela Ferguson served boiled cornbreads, made from traditional Haudenosaunee white corn, with strawberry jam and maple syrup. She and her crew also served corn mush with moose gravy, and Onondaga corn soup.
Fish patties– shaped by youth, grilled by Kristina and Poka, and served with Tashia’s ramp sauce, and green apples.
Cholla bud salad
Jesse and Jill serve red pepper bisque with venison broth
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